As we left foggy, slightly damp Hamilton two weeks ago, Charlie and I said a mournful goodbye to the new calves on Avalon Drive, saw a couple of yellow Times cars buzzing about the city like little bees, and left the green cheery cow-filled Waikato behind. Several hours later, after many stops to investigate all the good cat-hiding places in the car, Charlie and I came around that corner on SH1 - the corner that thrusts you out of Ngauranga Gorge and like a kid coming off a slide, and suddenly there is Wellington.

Our first few days were, to put it mildly, quite freaking cold. But thanks to a spare hottie and a whole lotta blankies, Paws McGraw and I managed to keep warm together while it rained and southerlies howled at our toes.